Category Archives: Recipes From The Garden

Avoid GMO Food – GROW YOUR OWN!

Lettuce, spinach and onions growing in raised truck bed.

Cool weather and cool raised bed of a 55 Chevy truck making for happy lettuce, spinach and onions.

Organic gardening is the easiest, best way to avoid all the GMO foods currently on the market – estimated to be 80% of US food chain.

I know – I wrote the book on just how easy it is to get going and get growing.  And I share tips and tricks on how to raise just about every possible vegetable and fruit you can find in the store (well, no kiwi, avocado or olives – too cold here).

Now, another doctor adds his voice to the growing chorus of educated, intelligent people who just don’t want to eat “frankenfood” that is definitely affecting our health and our children’s health.

Grow lettuce. Try blueberries – in pots or the yard.  20110628_0377

Heirloom tomatoes growing up happy with just sunshine and epsom salts!

Heirloom tomatoes on the vine in my backyard just weeks away from picking!

Add tomatoes and peppers.  And start being sure where your food has been and who it’s been hanging out with.

Share your ideas, your recipes and your success stories with other gardeners – just step out onto your patio or into your yard and start down the path to healthy food, health eating and healthy lives.  It is…oh so easy!

Growing Organic Blueberries is EASY!

Want to raise your own organic fruit?  Why not start with the easiest and one of the tastiest fruits first?

Blueberries win that contest hands down.  Long before edible landscaping was popular, I began exploring ways to raise fruit like blueberries, one of the more expensive products you’ll find in any store.

Organic blueberries on the bush

My organic blueberry plants yield 40 to 60 quarts every summer and take little or no work.

I put in 12 plants – 4 different varieties and I’ve been harvesting blueberries ever since – 4o to 60 quarts a summer!

That translates to a savings of $500.00 every year and that’s a conservative estimate.  That’s $7500 in my pocket for an initial investment of less than $100.00!

You’re probably thinking, “Oh, I don’t have enough space.” or “I can’t grow anything.”  Or my favorite, “I don’t know how.” I am here to tell you blueberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow…period.  And I’m going to tell you how to do it.

Pick the spot where you will plant them
Even if you are putting them in pots.  Why?  Two reasons. Blueberries need sunlight and lots of it so pick the sunny side of your house, a sunny spot in your yard or a sunny patch on the deck to plant them.  Blueberries also need good

Organic blueberries growing in my back yard.

Organic blueberries don’t need much to produce – sun, water, mulch and time.

drainage so don’t pick the soggy spot in your yard where nothing ever grows.

Pick the bushes you want to buy
I got mine at Miller’s Nursery (now Stark Brothers) 15 years ago and had to figure it out on my own.  But Miller’s has made it even easier to choose, now.  They tell you about each plant including how hardy they are, how tall they’ll grow and when they fruit.  They even have collections! So whether you’re potting your plants or using them to landscape around your house, it will be easy to get the right ones.

Make sure your dirt is good for their roots.  Blueberries like acidic soil – a ph of 4 to 5.  Any nursery can help you buy the right dirt if you’re potting.  And your local Ag Extension office can test the soil in your yard to see what you have to add.  NOTE:  I didn’t test; I just planted and all of my bushes survived and grew.

Plant them the right way.  For plants, take the plastic pot off, lightly roughen up the outside surface of the root ball. Set the top soil line of the plant about 1-2 inches higher than the existing ground and firm around root ball. Mound soil up along sides of exposed root mass. Water well.   For bare root plants, spread roots out wide and shallow, cover with 1/2″ of soil. Firm soil around roots and water well.

MULCH!
This is one of the best ways to ensure your blueberries will “live well and prosper” at your place.  Blueberries are shallow rooted.  If you don’t mulch, anything from frost, to extreme heat to rabbits can find and damage the roots.  But don’t think you have to buy expensive mulch!  Use my trick – newspaper and straw.  That’s right – Scott and Helen Nearing’s method.  It’s cheap, it provides fertilizer because the materials are acid and do break down and it makes my blueberry patch…weed free.

Sit back and watch them settle in and grow!
In an average year, I harvest up to 60 quarts of blueberries.  That’s 120 pints and 240 1/2 pints of organic, good for you and good tasting blueberries.  I eat them, make low sugar jam (using Pomona Pectin) out of them, freeze them and enjoy them even in the dead of winter!

If you grow your own blueberries, you don’t just save cash, you get all the health benefits that these tiny, blue jewels bring to your table.   Blueberries are one of the superstars on the healthy foods list. Only 80 calories per cup and virtually no fat, packed with vitamin C, a ready source of fiber and near the top of the list when it comes to antioxidant activity per serving.  How could you resist them?

 Bob’s Blueberry Buckle
¾ c sugar
¼ c butter
1 egg
2 c flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
2 c blueberries

Topping:
½ tsp cinnamon
½ c brown sugar
1/3 c flour
¼ c butter

DIRECTIONS:
Toss blueberries in a little flour.
Make topping.
Mix all ingredients for cake together.
Stir in blueberries.

NOTE:  This is a very, very thick batter.  Don’t worry about it.  Just pat the cake batter into a 9 inch square baking pan.  Sprinkle with topping and bake at 375 for 40 to 45 minutes.  While it’s baking, soften the butter and stand back.  When it comes out of the oven, there is nothing better than warm blueberry buckle, buried in butter.

RECIPE: Zucchini-Crusted Pizza

Tis the season for zucchini…fa la la la la la la la! So, I am reposting one of my favorite foods – Zucchini Crusted Pizza.

Zucchini Crusted Pizza

Zucchini Crusted Pizza

What’s really nice is that I had all the ingredients in house, already.  Even more special than that?  Almost all of the ingredients came from my backyard garden.

I raised the zucchini, garlic, fox cherry and roma tomatoes , onions, basil and oregano.  I give Trader Joe’s the nod for the black bean dip (which I mixed with my homemade tomato paste) and the goat cheese.

So, here’s the recipe!

Zucchini Pizza Crust
8 cups fresh shredded zucchini
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
2/3 cup almond flour
2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
3 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp basil
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 tsp salt

Pizza Sauce & Toppings
Homemade or organic tomato paste
Carmelized onions
Goat cheese
Thinly sliced, fresh organic tomatoes
Grated pecorino romano

Optional toppings:
Roasted peppers or roasted pepper spread
Black Bean dip
Mushrooms

Directions
Preheat oven to 550F.  If you have a pizza stone, put it in to pre-heat it.  I just use a stoneware deep dish pizza pan.

In a large bowl, toss the zucchini with 1 teaspoon coarse salt and set aside for 15 minutes. If frozen, thaw out and put into a large strainer.  Squeeze the excess moisture out of the squash by wrapping it up in a clean tea towel or piece of cheese cloth and wringing it out, discarding the water.

Once all of the excess moisture has been wrung out and discarded, place the shredded zucchini into the bowl and add the cheddar cheese, flour, garlic, oregano, basil, eggs, and salt.  Mix with your hands,

Place the zucchini mixture and using your fingers, spread the mixture to fill the pan or stone pushing it up the edges (if using a pizza pan) so that it forms a edge crust.

Bake the pizza shell itself until it starts to brown.  NOTE:  if your zucchini was too moist, just let the shell cook a bit longer to ensure it’s done, all the way through.

Pull the crust out of the oven and top with sauce, cheese, onions and any other ingredients you want, put it back in the oven and bake 10 to 15 more minutes – until the cheese melts and the sauces heat through.

Zucchini Crusted Pizza

All natural Zucchini Crusted Pizza

FYI this is good hot or cold – in case you lose power!  Bon appetit!

Awesome organic weed killer from TastyLandscape

I have been using the vinegar as weed killer trick for years now.  I started when I found poison ivy on our property.  I am highly allergic to the oil on this plant and can’t even touch something that touched poison ivy without getting it.

So I used vinegar.  Dr. Osborne recommends adding dish soap to vinegar to kill some plants that have waxy leaves.  I find that if I add a nice cup of kosher sale to a gallon of cider or white vinegar, stir until dissolved and pour it on the poison ivy, it doesn’t stand a chance.

Weeds don’t either.

The good doctor does note that vinegar doesn’t discriminate – it kills anything.  So be careful how your pour or spray.  Other plants will go down with the weeds.

And using this common household product ensures that you are not poisoning the water for you or for your neighbors (think wells, water table and where Round Up goes once it leaves the sprayer).

I love this post and am so glad that Dr. Osborne shared his secret.

Awesome organic weed killer | TastyLandscapeTastyLandscape.

via Awesome organic weed killer | TastyLandscapeTastyLandscape.

Grow So Easy Organic: How to Grow Asparagus

I LOVE this plant because you plant the crowns one year, wait two years and then reap the asparagus harvest for the next 20 years.  Every spring, tips push through the earth, ready for harvesting.  

English: Asparagus tip growing in a tub

Asparagus emerging from the ground every spring is a delight to any grower. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Asparagus is not quite a perennial unless you are my age…then it will outlive you!

Planting asparagus is a bit more complicated than dropping seeds into soil, watering and waiting to harvest.  But I once read an article that said planting asparagus is a bit like getting married.  If you do it right, you only have to do it once.

The first thing you have to do is choose your asparagus plants.  One of the new male varieties will usually be more productive than the old stand bys.  All-male asparagus varieties — including Jersey Giant, Jersey Supreme and Jersey Knight— produce up to three times more than older, open-pollinated male/female varieties, such as ‘Mary Washington.

Once you’ve ordered your crowns, it’s time to get the asparagus bed ready for the new babies.

Planting Asparagus
Asparagus isn’t hard to plant but it does make a few demands on the back yard gardener.  For one thing, early spring is the best time to plant asparagus crowns in my neck of the woods.  Once the soil can be worked but frost is still hitting the back yard.  So, if you live in the Mid-Atlantic region, planting should be done between April 15 to May 15. 

Asparagus has some very specific requirements but you only have to plant it once to enjoy more than 20 years of production.  And there are really only a few steps to follow that will make your asparagus grow healthy and give you fresh, succulent green shoots every spring.

Step I – Choose the site wisely.  Asparagus likes sunshine – a lot of it.  Make sure the spot you choose will not be disturbed for 20 to 25 years.

Step 2 – Dig a trench that is 18 inches deep and 24 inches wide.  If your soil is heavy, make sure you loosen it to a depth of 24 inches because asparagus likes good drainage.

Step 3 – Add a layer of organic matter to your trench – 4 inches of chopped leaves or pine needles or compost or rotted cow manure and dig it in a bit with a fork.  Asparagus likes rich, fertile soil.  Sprinkle on a light dusting of bone meal and your ready to plant!

Step 4 – Once the bed is ready, carefully take out each crown, spread its roots and place it in the trench with its buds facing up.  Give each crown some room to grow, spacing them about 15 inches apart to allow for root growth.

If your trench is 30 feet long, you should be able to put 24 crowns in the ground.  When I planted my asparagus, I made 2 trenches about 15 feet long each with a 2 foot wide path between each trench.

Step 5 – cover the crowns with soil but only 1 to 2 inches of soil, initially.  Over the next few months, you will gradually fill in the trench as the crowns put out their first spears.  NOTE:  DON’T HARVEST ANY SPEARS the first year.

If you harvest in the first year, you will stress the new crowns and may reduce your asparagus crop every year thereafter.  And, by the way, ONLY HARVEST the first 2 or 3 weeks of the next year (the second year your crowns are in the ground).  Again, over-harvesting can damage and, in some cases, even kill the crown.  So patience…or you might regret it for the next 20 years.

Making Asparagus Happy
Once the spears are starting to grow up through the soil and you are keeping them lightly covered with soil, your primary job in year one is to keep weeds from growing up around the asparagus.

But don’t till around the asparagus.  The crowns don’t like being disturbed.  So you can hand weed one or two times a week.  Or you can use table salt to kill off some weeds (asparagus is more tolerant of salt than other plants).  But I take care of weeds in the asparagus bed the same way I do my whole garden – with mulch.

Once the trenches are leveled off, I put 4 inches of straw on either side of the bed and straight down my walking path.  Weeds are suppressed; water is held in and the asparagus spears are pretty well protected from my dancing West Highland terriers.  And the mulching approach works all year long.

Keeping Asparagus Happy
Setting up the asparagus bed just so means you will have happy asparagus crowns for decades to come.  Once the plants are established, keeping them happy is really very easy.

Don’t harvest every spear of asparagus.  Taking all the asparagus means the crown has nothing to help it replenish itself.  Year 3, you can harvest for the first 4 weeks.  Year 4 and beyond, you should be able to harvest everything for 6 to 8 weeks but note…

There are some sure signs that you should start getting a bit particular about what you harvest.  To ensure that your asparagus plants stay healthy from year to year, ALWAYS STOP HARVESTING when 3/4ths of the spears are down to pencil – size, about 3/8ths of an inch in diameter.

Also, oddly-shaped spears and woody spears are indications that your harvest season is over.

Asparagus plumosus with berries (unripe); {tāu...

Asparagus spears left in the ground plume, adding beauty to the garden and protecting the crowns.(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Once you stop harvesting, let the remaining spears in the patch grow up and fern.  These ferns aren’t just nice to look at.  They offer protection to the asparagus crowns so Do NOT cut the ferns down, even in the fall. 

Let them overwinter because they protect the crowns from freezing.  I usually cut and remove the dead ferns in late February.  And I mean remove them.  They are taken out onto the back acre and piled up with the brush that will be burned in March or April.

Make sure you side dress asparagus with some nice, rich compost every spring.  And make sure you mulch heavily (3 to 4 inches of straw) around the rows to stop weeds from growing in the patch.  Then sit back and wait for that glorious, first harvest of fresh asparagus.

This is my final post on growing organic vegetables.  I will post three more growing stories — on blueberries, blackberries and sour pie cherries.  And then, I’ll be on to prepping this manuscript for publication on Kindle!

So, next week, how I harvest 60 quarts of blueberries every year from just one corner of my yard!

Grow So Easy Organic: How To Grow Onions

Red onions

Red onions are my favorite and it’s easier and cheaper to raise them organically, so why not? (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

In my early gardening years, way back in the dark ages when I had a stick and some dirt, I never, ever considered raising onions in my garden.

I didn’t use a lot of onions in my cooking, well to be honest, I didn’t cook much, either.  I was a road warrior and spent most of my life in a plane, on a train or riding in a limo.  There was no dirt under my nails, no canning jars in my pantry and no garden in my back yard.

Besides, my Mom never raised onions or garlic.  But then, my Mom wasn’t married to an Italian.  So when I traded in all my gold credit cards and came home to life on the homestead, I decided to give onions a try.

Getting Onions In The Ground
My first experience with raising them was hilarious. I decided to start them from seed.  One cold and windy day in early March, I went out, worked the soil loose with my hand rake and spread seeds.  I was a little liberal with the amount of seed I put down but I’d never done it before. 

And onion seed is small and dark.  It disappeared right into the soil.  I covered the seeds with a tiny bit of soil, covered the bed with a fence section and a sheet and went back inside to thaw out and promptly forgot I’d planted onion seed.

Four weeks later, in the middle of April. I was preparing a bed for beets.  There is no finesse involved in prepping and planting these babies and the seeds are so big, I didn’t need my glasses, I thought.

I knelt down by the bed and was stunned to see a ton of baby grass growing in the bed.  I grabbed handfuls and began madly tearing out what I thought were weeds.  About 3 minutes later I froze; I was tearing up baby onions!

I tend to use sets, now.

Seed or Sets
Raising onions from seed is easy as long as you remember that you planted it and don’t rip it out, willy nilly.  Once the seeds sprout and the onion babies get to be 3 inches high, all you have to do is thin and transplant them using the same technique I use for baby beets.

Raising onions from sets is easy too but your choices are limited to what your favorite, organic seed company is growing.  I prefer red onions so I usually end up with Stuttgart or Candy Red.  Both are good tasting, sweet onions but only the Stuttgart is a long keeper.

Depending on whether you are planting long or short day, you can put onion seed in the ground as soon as you can work the soil in the spring.  If you’re going for sets, the best time to order your sets is early.  If you don’t order early, you may not get the varieties you want.  Raising onions in the backyard is getting more popular and nurseries run out of sets pretty early.

White, Red or Yellow
Onions come in quite a few colors – that would be your first choice.  They also come in long day, short day and intermediate.  Clearly, the names refer to how long the onions take to mature.  And picking the right onion for your zone and growing season is important to how well the onions grow and how big and healthy they are. 

Like many plants, onions grow roots and leaves first then begin to form bulbs but only when daylight hours reach a particular length.  Onions are what’s known as “photoperiodic.”  That means they regulate their growth by the duration of light and dark at the time of year they are growing.

If you try a long day onion in the deep South, you’ll get great tops but very small bulbs which will be killed when exposed to too much heat.  A short day onion that’s planted in the north will try to produce bulbs before the leaves have formed.  Without leaves to supply food, the bulb won’t be able to develop and size of the bulb will be limited. 

So, rule of thumb, plant long day varieties if you live north of latitude 36º — roughly the Kansas/Oklahoma border.  Plant short day types south of this line.  Put long day varieties in the ground as early as possible in the spring.  Put short day onions in the ground in the fall to give them a head start in the spring.

Planting Onions
If you are putting onion sets in the ground, most organic companies will ship them to you in the fall and within 2 weeks of the optimum time for you to plant.  When the sets arrive, they may appear wilted but they are pretty hardy and should do well if you plant them quickly.

NOTE:  if you cannot plant as soon as they arrive, soak the roots in water and either keep them in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or mound soil around the roots and keep them moist. 

When you are ready to transplant, simply trim the tops to about 3 inches high and the roots to ¼ of an inch.  I use a sharpened pencil to create a hole for each set that’s about 1 to 2 inches deep – deep enough to cover the white part of the baby onion.   I plant the sets about 4 to 6 inches apart, in rows about 18 inches apart.  

Make sure you plant the baby onions as directed above because they don’t like to compete for foods and fertilizer with each other or other plants, including weeds.  In fact, there’s a saying in the onion business – you can grow onions or weeds but not both.

When planting in the fall, mulch heavily – I use 14 to 18 inches of straw to cover the whole bed. 

Mulching keeps the plants from sprouting during the January thaw and prevents the freezing and heaving cycle when warmer days play tag with the cold temperatures of deep winter.

In the spring, when forsythia start to bloom, pull the stacked straw off the plants but leave a light layer of mulch.  The mulch suppresses weeds.  Put a light cover over your baby onions if frost is predicted.  I use old sheer curtains.  Water onions regularly; they need about an inch of water a week.  And that’s about it.

Harvesting & Storing Onions
Onions are ready for harvest when the tops turn yellow and begin falling over.  For those that are not quite ready, you can finish bending the tops so they are horizontal to the ground using your hand.  Bending the leaves stops sap from rising into the leaves and forces the bulb to mature.

When the outer skin on the onion dries, remove from the soil, brush the earth off each onion, clip the roots and cut the tops back to 1 inch from the bulb.  Store onions in a cool, dry place and try not to let them touch each other.  If handled properly, onions can last up to 1 year in storage.

Onion Pests & Diseases
Onions are pungent so they tend to repel most pests.  Onions can also be inter-planted to repel pests from other plants, too.  The bigger risk for onions are fungal diseases.  It is also a risk that is very easily mitigated.

Smut, downy mildew and pink root are common problems encountered while raising onions.  The easiest way to avoid all three of them is rotation.  Do NOT plant onions or garlic in a bed where other allium crops have been planted the year before and, preferably, two years before.

In fact, the longer you can avoid planting onions in a bed that was used for raising alliums, the better.

By the way, if you want to find out everything about onions…just visit the National Onion Association read the FAQs and browse the types, colors and recipes.

Recipes
I love raw onions in salads, on the top of black bean soup and on dishes of beans and feta cheese.  But my favorite way to eat onions is caramelized.  A stick of butter in a cast iron pan, toss in about 8 onions and just cook until they are the color of caramel and salty/sweet.  They are good plain, they are great on hamburgers. 

And they are great in Onion Frittata — a recipe that owes a whole lot of its flavor and richness to caramelized onions.

RECIPE:  Onion Frittata

INGREDIENTS:
8 large eggs
1 cup grated parmesan cheese
3 basil leaves torn in pieces
3 minced sage leaves
1tsp minced rosemary
3 T olive oil
1 or 2 c sliced onions
1 ½ to 2 cups ricotta cheese
Kosher salt and fresh pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 400°
Put olive oil in large, cast iron frying pan and heat.
Put onions in frying pan and cook until just turning brown and starting to caramelize.
Reduce heat to low.
While onions cook, whisk eggs, parmesan cheese, basil, sage, rosemary salt a pepper together.
Pour egg mixture into frying pan over onions.
Spoon dollops of ricotta over the top and cook on the stove top until frittata begins to set.
Place frying pan in oven and bake for 7 to 9 minutes until it is set.
Slide frittata onto plate or serve from frying pan by cutting into slices.  Serve hot or cold.

Growing garlic is just about as easy as growing onions as I shared in an earlier post.

Grow So Easy Organic – Eggplant

When you think of the most popular vegetables to grow in the back yard, you probably don’t come up with eggplant.  In fact, when Mother Earth News did a survey of who was planting what, the most popular homegrown vegetable was the tomato followed by peppers, green beans, cucumbers, onions, lettuce, summer squash, carrots, radishes, and sweet corn.  Eggplant didn’t even make the list!

Eggplant

The bigger the eggplant, the bigger the bitter.   (Photo credit: Asian Lifestyle Design)

Okay, so eggplant is not a favorite with a lot of gardeners but the reason just may be that most gardeners have never had young, sweet flavorful eggplants plucked off their own plants.   Instead they’ve tried those large, purple cylinders they buy in the grocery store.  I was the same way until I grew a few plants and discovered there is no comparison.

There are three tricks to getting full-flavored fruit from an eggplant; buy the right seeds, start the plants early and harvest the eggplant when they’re small.

My favorite eggplant is the round, striated one called Bianca Rosa from High Mowing Organic Seeds.   This is a Sicilian eggplant with light pink fruits that are streaked with white and violet. The flavor is mild and creamy with no bitterness and a low number of seeds.

How To Grow Eggplant
Growing eggplant is a bit like growing peppers – both like warm summer days.  In fact, I think eggplant is even more cold-sensitive.  To get eggplant to flower and set fruit, you need warm soil and a long, warm growing season – from 100 to 140 days with temperatures consistently between 70° and 90°.

I always start eggplant from seed.  And I always start them early – at least 10 weeks before my last frost date.  Like all my seeds, I start them in cells.  I don’t soak them overnight before putting them in the cell but you can to shorten the time to sprouting.

Once the eggplant seedlings get their second set of leaves, I transplant them into 2 inch peat pots, raise the tray up off the heating mat (I use two bricks – not high-tech but cheap and easy) but keep them there so they can have the warmth they need to thrive.  When they get to between 4 and 5 inches high, I transplant them again, this time into 4 inch peat pots.

Why not go directly from cell to the 4 inch peat pot?  Remember, eggplant like warm soil.  Take them from warm, moist soil and stick them in cold dirt and they get shocky – I know, I tried.  All my eggplant were stunted and fruit came late in the season.

So unless I plan far enough ahead to prepare the 4 inch pots and put them over the heat map to warm the soil (that’s unlikely), I just go from cell to 2 inch then 4 inch peat pot.

Once they have settled into the new pots and are thriving, I move the trays off the heat mats and onto my lighted plant stand (which I bought used almost 20 years ago and am still using).

When To Transplant Eggplant
Eggplant have the same needs as those of bell peppers.  Transplants should only be set in the garden after all danger of frost is past.  Remember, warm soil, warm air and warm days, lots and lots of all three are what eggplant need to thrive.

If your eggplant are happy, they will need more space than you might anticipate.  Eggplant should be spaced about 2 feet apart.  I don’t plant them in rows, I zigzag them.  Like pepper plants, eggplant can be pulled over by the size and weight of their own fruit so I use tomato cages for support.  I have also planted them along a fence line so I can tie the plants up once they reach maturity.

Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the row and stagger them so you can get 6 to 8 plants in less space.   Make sure you leave about 2 to 2/12 feet between rows, especially if you are planting in raised beds so you can get to the plants and the fruit, easily.

Care
Once in the ground, give the transplants a good watering to settle them into the ground.  I always mulch eggplant but before I do, I put a ring of composted soil around each plant to feed it.  Then I mulch with straw or grass clippings or both to keep the weeds down.

You can also use a nitrogen fertilizer if you don’t have any composted soil, feeding the plants when they are half-grown and right after you harvest the first fruits. But being a lazy gardener, I prefer using composted soil.

Once the plants are established, eggplant love the heat of the summer.  You only have to water if you are in a persistent dry period then wait for those lovely, sweet eggplant to start emerging from each lavender flower.

Oh, and keep an eye out for one pest that just loves eggplant – the Colorado Potato Beetle.

Bugs That Bug Eggplant
When you read up on eggplant pests, the one you will read about the most is the flea beetle.   Flea beetles chew tons of tiny holes in leaves.  If plants are older and stronger, the flea beetles will be more of an annoyance than a true threat to your eggplant.  And you can hand-pick and crush these little devils easily.

But if your plants are younger and tender, flea beetles can actually cause real problems.  To avoid this problem, keep plants indoors until early summer, as advised and once you transplant them, cover outdoor plants with floating row covers to keep the flea beetles at bay until the plants get older and tougher.

Some gardeners think flea beets are an eggplant’s worst pest.  I save that title for the Colorado Potato Beetle…on my Top 10 Bugs list for a reason.

This image was selected as a picture of the we...

The Colorado Potato Beetle will eat anything, even eggplant.   (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The good news is that the eggs, larvae and the adult beetles are easy to spot and even easier to crush.

The eggs, orange-yellow in color, can be found in clusters of about 20 on the undersides of leaves.  Finding and killing them before they hatch helps decrease the odds of an infestation.

Just crush them gently (sounds like an oxymoron but necessary advice) with your fingers, trying not to damage the leaf they are laid on.

If the eggs hatch, the larvae are red to orange soft grubs about 1/2 inch long when mature. Larvae have black heads, little black legs and, as they grow, will have two rows of black spots on each side of the body. If you see holes in the leaves, check the underside for these babies.

When they reach maturity, the beetle phase, you will be able to recognize the adult Colorado Beetle easily.  The body is domed with distinctive yellow and black stripes running along the length of the wing covers.

These beetles are easy to hand-pick and crush.  I keep two small, flat stones in the garden by the eggplant to do just that.

The most common eggplant disease is Verticillium wilt which causes yellowing, wilting and death of the plants.  If you plant resistant cultivars and rotate crops – never planting eggplant where tomatoes or potatoes have grown the year before, you should be able to avoid this disease.

Harvesting Eggplant
Eggplant is one vegetable where size does matter – and it should be small.

If you harvest eggplant when they are young, you will be sure to get sweet flesh with none of the bitterness that larger eggplant bring to the table.

To find out if an eggplant is ready to be picked, hold the eggplant in your palm and gently press it with your thumb. If the flesh presses in but bounces back, it is ready for harvesting. If the flesh is hard and does not give, the eggplant is immature and too young to harvest.

Eggplant bruise easily so harvest gently. Don’t try to pull eggplant off the plant.  You will damage the plant and probably not win the tug of war with the stem.

You might even get stabbed by one of the spines on the stem.  So carry a sharp knife with you and cut the stem of the eggplant about an inch away from the top or cap of the fruit.  That method protects you, the plant and the fruit from damage.

I harvest all season long.  I love eggplant marinated and grilled.  And when I get too many or get just a bit tired of marinating them, I simply slice them, grill them dry (no oil) on the Foreman Grill and freeze them.  During the cold days of winter, I use the frozen slices to make wonderful Eggplant Parmigiana.

Eggplants don’t store well but you don’t want to leave them on the plants too long, either. Either harvest and use immediately for the best flavor or process them for the freezer.

No recipes for eggplant (other than marinated or in parmigiana) but a tip a chef shared with me.  When making Eggplant Parmigiana, mix the ricotta cheese, eggs, cooked and crumbled ground beef and tomato sauce together.

This way, you only have to layer once.  All 4 fillings are more evenly distributed and the finished dish has a creamier, richer flavor.  This tip works for lasagna, too!

Next week, zucchini and summer squash and everything you need to know to enjoy both, all summer long.

Happy Holidays from Grow So Easy Organic

No post on veggies today, no new tales of woe, just my sincere wish that you, your loved ones, your families and friends have a wonderful holiday.  And a wish that you have a wonderful and very happy new year…in 2013.

Grow So Easy Organic: Recipes for Using The Sweetest Peppers

Bugs That Bug Peppers
Apparently, there are quite a few insects that can do damage to peppers.  In my zone, I haven’t had any problems with insect damage on my peppers until this year.

Brown Marmorated Stink Bug, Halyomorpha halys ...

Stink bugs come in a lot of flavors but this is the one I battle – the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug, Halyomorpha halys (Stal) (Photo credit: Armed Forces Pest Management Board)

Because stink bugs have become so prolific, I have started having damage on all my vegetable plants, including peppers.  As with all insect pests, I use as many organic methods as possible to control them.

Tachinid wasps help.  Hand picking and crushing work, too.  But the key to controlling insects on peppers is the same as it is on most other garden pests.  You have to get ahead of the bug population by spotting and crushing the eggs before they hatch into nymphs.

One tip if you’re working with stink bugs (or any beetles) – go out early in the morning to catch and kill. Spread a white pillow case or piece of fabric under the each plant and shake the pepper plant.  The stink bugs will drop onto the fabric and you can crush them or scoop them up and drop them into soapy dishwater.

Stink bugs aren’t the only bugs that bug peppers.  Other pests include the European corn borer, pepper maggot, aphids, thrips, spider mites and even the cucumber beetle.

The University of Florida provides a comprehensive list of pepper pests including illustrations.  Although this list is specific to Florida, the same bugs have been slowly wending their way up the East coast so they are probably either  in your garden already or going to make an appearance, soon.

Pepper Diseases
I also haven’t had many problems with diseases in my peppers.  But there are a handful of diseases that can affect these sun-loving plants.  Many of them are common to tomatoes, which is not surprising because peppers and tomatoes are related – both are members of the Solanaceae family.

Diseases include bacterial leaf spot, phytophthora blight, anthracnose and viruses. It helps to try to choose resistant varieties of peppers, which agricultural experts say is the most effective management strategy for controlling diseases.

Like tomatoes, blossom end rot is a common affliction in sweet peppers and it’s directly correlated to a calcium deficiency. This disease can be made even more deadly if your pepper plants experience long dry periods because calcium uptake only occurs via osmosis.

Blossom end rot starts as a water-soaked lesion on the bottom (blossom end) or side of the pepper fruit wall. Eventually the lesion becomes discolored and papery dry, making the fruit vulnerable to insects and inedible.

Recipes
Stuffed peppers never made my list of favorites and I hadn’t really thought of any way to cook and serve peppers until I married into an Italian family.  Over the last 30 years I have been perfecting my pepper recipes and want to share a two of my favorites.

RECIPE:  Scalloppine Sauce
No need to crack open a cook book or worry about how hard it will be to make this dish.  This is the easiest, fastest and tastiest way I know to let the flavor of your vegetables speak for you (and use up the last of the tomatoes and sweet peppers hanging out in your kitchen).  If this Irish woman married to an Italian man can do it, so can you.

INGREDIENTS
Chop about 30 peppers into large pieces.  NOTE:  I do not peel my peppers but you can if you don’t want strands of pepper skin in your Scalloppine.
Cut 6 to 8 cups of onions into rough pieces.
Dice up 30 to 40 tomatoes.
Mince 4 big cloves of garlic.

DIRECTIONS:
Dump all the ingredients into a large pot.
Add a dollop (make that a cup) of olive oil.
Put the whole concoction on the stove to simmer on a very low flame.
Let this brew/cook down for 14 to 16 hours.

The vegetables should reduce by about 1/3 rd while cooking down.  If your batch is still a little loose, just let it cook for another 4 to 6 hours. When the sauce is as thick as you’d like it to be, you can start canning.
Ladle it into quart jars.
Use a non reactive tool to remove any air bubbles.
Process quarts for 25 minutes.
Turn off heat, remove canner lid and let jars rest in water for 5 minutes.
Remove, cool for 24 hours.  Remove rims, label and store.

I usually get about 8 quarts of fabulous sauce.  You can fry up sausage and add the sauce to it for a fast and fabulous Italian dinner.

RECIPE:  Hot & Sweet Italian Pepper Relish
I created this recipe myself and have to say it is really tasty – great flavors from all the veggies and just the right kick of heat from the peppers.

INGREDIENTS:
13 or 14 Italian sweet peppers
3 to 4 large sweet onions
1 c cider vinegar
1 c olive oil
½ c sugar
1 T mustard seed
1 tsp salt
2 tsp celery seed
1 T oregano
2 clove garlic – minced
1 T basil
1 tsp red pepper flakes

DIRECTIONS:
Core and seed peppers.
Chop onions and peppers into ¼ to ½ inch pieces – use a food processor to make this easier and faster.
Put onions and peppers into large, non reactive pot.
Pour in vinegar and oil and bring mixture to a simmer.
Slowly stir in sugar, mustard and celery seed, oregano, basil, salt and red pepper flakes.
Continue to cook on a very low flame for 1 ½ to 2 hours stirring every 15 or 20 minutes.
When the relish is thick, ladle into jars.  Use a non reactive tool to remove any air bubbles.
Process pints for 20 minutes.
Turn off heat, remove canner lid and let jars rest in water for 5 minutes.
Remove, cool for 24 hours.  Remove rims, label and store.

Both of these recipes beat Stuffed Peppers by a mile in the taste department and you can use them all winter long to spice up your sauces, soups and stews.

If you like your peppers hot…check out Jovina Cooks Italian for some great information and some more recipes!

Next week, another perennial garden favorite — Zucchini and other summer squash!

Grow So Easy Organic – Bugs That Bug Green Beans

I used to ask myself, “What’s a Mexican Bean Beetle?”

Now, every summer, I ask myself, “Of all the bugs in all the world, why does the Mexican Bean Beetle have to find my garden?”

The Mexican Bean Beetle is the worst of the worst when it comes to green beans.  One day there is nothing there.  The next day there are one or two Mexican Bean Beetles.  Once you see the beetles, it’s almost too late to save your crop.

Mexican Bean Beetles are members of the lady beetle family.  But they aren’t the Lady Beetle relatives you want in your garden.  Copper-colored, about 6 mm

Pesky bean beetle

Tiny & destructive (Photo credit: Michael Bok)

(1/4 inch) long and 5 mm (1/5 inch) wide, with 8 small black spots on each wing, the adults resemble large lady beetles but they’re really wholesale destruction machines.  And they come in force.

How do they find your garden and your bean plants so quickly?

Chances are they never left when the winter came; they simply tucked in to the ground in leaf litter and other sheltered areas in fence rows of your garden plot and waited out the freezing temperatures and the snow.

Adults begin emerging from these protected areas when beans begin sprouting and continue to emerge for up to two months. The adults feed for approximately two weeks before depositing their eggs on the underside of leaves.  And when I say feed, I mean ravage.

Nasty beetles eating everything.

Mexican Bean Beetles eat the life out of the bean plants. (Photo credit: Jason Riedy)

Yellow eggs 1 mm (1/20 inch) in length are laid in groups of 40-60 on the lower leaf surfaces.  Females may deposit an egg-mass every two to three days. Eggs hatch in 5-24 days.  Immature larvae are yellow and are covered with large spines.  Larvae feed for two to five weeks before pupation.

You have 3 chances to kill these beetles off – crush the eggs, crush the larvae and crush the mature beetles.  The first two are the easiest but you can catch and kill the beetles too.  You just have to be persistent.  If you can make it through July and August, when the greatest amount of injury occurs and the adults begin to disappear, you might save some of your bean harvest.

Green Bean Diseases
Green beans can fall victim to some of the typical, soil and air borne diseases like bacterial spot, bacterial blight, Anthracnose and powdery mildew and a few I never heard of like Cercospora leaf spot.

Bottom line, I have not experienced one of these diseases in my garden.  Maybe I’ve been lucky.  Maybe I rotate my crops properly and buy seed that is resistant to bacterial infections.  And just maybe, my climate helps me along.

In any case, if you want to know all about raising green beans and managing the multiple diseases that might just affect your plants, check out the 12 diseases that are included in one of the most comprehensive guides to growing green beans I have ever read.

Then take a chance and plant some beans.  They grow fast.  They set tons of beans.  If you plant them properly, train them right (if they’re pole beans) and aggressively crush all variations of the Mexican Bean Beetle, you will be able to harvest and enjoy green beans all summer long.

My Harvest Trick
I said I had one and I do.  I plant enough green beans in my garden to satisfy the need for fresh green beans on the table all summer long.  But I’m a pragmatist with a limited amount of growing space.

So, when I’m ready to can green beans for the winter, I visit my favorite Amish farmer and buy as bushel and a half of beans and start cleaning, trimming, packing and pressure cooking green beans.

NOTE:  You MUST pressure cook green beans to preserve them.  You CANNOT simply water bath them.  Why not?

Green beans are not acidic.

According to the USDA’s Complete Guide to Home Canning and Preserving,  (my favorite guide), green beans must be heated, under 10 pounds of pressure for 25 minutes (for quarts) to make sure you kill all bacteria including Clostridium botulinium, the cause of botulism, a life-threatening disease.

Fresh or canned, I love green beans and I love everything about growing them except the Mexican Bean Beetles.

RECIPE:  Roasted Green Beans

INGREDIENTS:
1 pound green beans, ends snapped off
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher or large grain salt to taste
Fresh ground pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS:
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.  This is the most important step.
Line baking sheet with aluminum foil or parchment paper.
Spread beans on baking sheet and drizzle with oil.
Toss with both hands to coat beans with oil, evenly.
Sprinkle lightly with  salt and pepper.
Roast for 10 minutes.  Remove baking sheet from the oven and flip beans over.
Roast for another 10 to 15 minutes.
Serve.

Next week, I’ll share my own experience with trying to grow dried beans and  what I discovered about growing, harvesting and eating dried beans.